Thursday, March 14, 2013

Sunshine in Winter: Tarte à la Moutarde




It’s snowing in Paris! Or, as Malcolm Miller, guide extraordinaire of the Chartres Cathedral says, “We are having an endless, dreary, cold and now snowy winter.” For a Californian, snow is exciting and skiing in front of the Sacré Coeur even more so, but it is mid-March and a slight taste of summer would not be unwelcome. At this point in the year, I need a boost of bright, acidic flavors, something light and flavorful to kick my taste buds into action - tomatoes; rosemary, thyme, mint, basil; strong Dijon mustard.


Tarte à la moutarde was first introduced to me as an easy to throw together tart using store-bought pâte brisée or pâte feuilletée that was slathered with mustard, covered with ham slices and baked in the oven. These days, my preferred version of Tarte à la moutarde is made with a butter rich parmesan and herbed flecked crust blind baked then smeared with a generous glob of sinus opening Dijon mustard sprinkled with a scant handful of cheese and topped with thinly sliced tomatoes, a sprinkling of herbs and a few olives. A swooshing drizzle of olive oil and the tart is baked until the tomatoes start to brown. 

Any pie crust fears can easily be put to rest with the addition of an egg and the use of a food processor. It’s life changing.

Serve with a platter of jambon cru or the Swiss beef version that I always associate with Alpine ski vacations, Viande des Grisons, and a wintry salad with a bitter bite, such as endive or cresson.   


Tarte à la moutarde
© 2013 K-Rae Nelson

Use lots of mustard!
© 2013 K-Rae Nelson





Tarte à la Moutarde
(adapted from ‘Loch Arthur Cheese and Tomato Tart’, Bon Appétit, May 2004)

Serves 4 generously
Makes one 12”/30cm thin-crusted tart

Ingredients
200 g/1½ cups/7 oz                      all purpose flour
115 g/½ cup/4 oz                          chilled unsalted butter
30 g/1/3 cup/1 oz                          finely grated Parmesan cheese
½ tsp.                                            salt (or big pinch sea salt)
1 tsp.                                             thyme or other dried herbs (optional)
1                                                    egg
2 tsp.                                             ice water
60 g/4 Tbs.                                   whole grain or Dijon mustard
85 -140 g/3-5 oz                           grated or crumbled cheese (gruyere, goat)
6-8/1 ½ lb.                                    tomatoes, sliced, depending on size
To taste                                         sea salt and freshly ground pepper, thyme
1 Tbs.                                            extra virgin olive oil
6-8                                                 olives, to taste


Directions
(NB: If using a store-bought shell – I won’t judge, really! - begin at step #5.)

1)      Combine flour, butter, Parmesan cheese and salt in food processor.  Pulse blend until mixture resembles coarse meal. 
2)      Beat egg and 2 tsp. ice water in small bowl to blend.  Add to dry ingredients. 
3)      Process until dough comes together in a ball. 
4)      Gather dough into ball, flatten into disk.  Wrap with a long sheet of plastic wrap, or place in large ziplock bag.  Chill 1 hour.
5)      While dough is chilling, slice tomatoes, place on paper towels, salt. 
6)      Preheat oven to 200°C (400°F).
7)      Place dough on flat surface (still in plastic bag or covered with plastic wrap.  Roll out into disk with hands, wine bottle, or if your kitchen is particularly well-equipped, a rolling pin.  Transfer to buttered tart pan with removable bottom.  Smooth bottom with fingers.  Press tart shell with fork in several places.
8)      Cover tart shell with waxed paper or foil and pie weights (or beans or rice).  
9)      Bake in oven for 10 minutes, turning at 5 minutes.
10)   Remove tart shell from oven.  Remove foil/waxed paper and weights.
11)   Smear about 3 Tbs. of mustard over the bottom of the tart.
12)   Sprinkle cheese over mustard – about 3-5 oz. as you wish. I prefer the emphasis to be on the tomato rather than the cheese, but tastes vary.
13)   Blot tomatoes with paper towels to remove excess juice.  Layer tomatoes on tart shell in as pretty of a pattern as you can manage. 
14)   Sprinkle with thyme, salt, pepper. 
15)   Drizzle with the olive oil.  Decorate with a few olives.
16)   Bake for about 30-40 minutes in the oven, turning at mid-point until the cheese is melted and tomatoes are soft and slightly charred.

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