Having friends over for a long evening around the
table is one of my greatest pleasures. It’s even better when I haven’t spent
the whole day cooking and preparing and can relax with my guests. Some dishes
are truly better when made ahead. This is true of stewed dishes, but also of
chocolate! I make this daube, or stew, on Thursday night
and the cake on Friday night to serve on Saturday. The speck, drier and a bit
smokier than a Parma prosciutto, sausage, olives and cheese I pick up at my
local cheese store (Venissimo Cheese in Del Mar, CA, or La Fermette de Chloe in Paris).
Champagne
Apéritif
Speck,
Saucisson, Green Olives, Spicy Caramelized Nuts,
Cubes of Aged Gouda & Sheep’s
Milk Cheese, Walnut Bread and Crackers
Daube de Boeuf à la Provençale with Polenta and
Persillade
Gâteau Reine de Saba à la framboise
Trio de truffes – nature, rhum, miel
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| Elizabeth David |
This daube is adapted from a recipe by Elizabeth
David, the British Julia Child, that appeared in the anthology The Best of
Elizabeth David: South Wind Through the Kitchen (1999, North Point Press).
I removed the pork and increased the vegetables. The olives and tomatoes give
this stew its ‘Provençale’ bona fides. The northern parsnip is an intruder,
but one of my favorite winter additions.
Daube de Boeuf à la Provençale
Serves 8-10.
Serves 8-10.
Begin at least one
night, and preferably two nights, before serving!
4 lbs. shoulder "clod", or shoulder roast
3 Tbs. olive oil
4 onions
2-3 carrots
2-3 parsnips
1 28 oz. can diced tomatoes
6 cloves of garlic
thyme, 2 bay leaves, chopped parsley (including some stem)
peel of one orange
freshly ground or crushed pepper
8 oz. red wine
handful of pitted olives (or not, but be sure to warn the guests!)
sea salt
1) Preheat the oven to 290F (140C).
2) Cut the meat into large chunks.
3) Peel the carrots and parsnips and cut into 1-2" chunks. Peel and slice the onions.
4) In the bottom of a the largest stew pot you have, add olive oil, about 3 Tbs. Cover with the vegetables. Arrange the meat on top. With the pan uncovered, start cooking over moderate heat on top of the stove.
5) Meanwhile, heat the wine in another saucepan. Bring it to a fast boil and let simmer for a minute. (Elizabeth David sets light to the wine and rotates the pan so the flames spread.)
6) Pour the simmering wine over the meat. Cover the pot with foil and then a well fitting lid. Transfer to the oven and leave for 2 1/2 hours.
7) Check the meat for doneness. This is the scary part. After two hours or so the meat will seem tough and you'll invariably think that you've overcooked it and your stew will be inedible. Continue cooking for another 30 minutes and check again. The stew is done when the meat starts to shred when you pull at it with a fork.
8) Cool the stew and refrigerate. This can be tricky because of refrigerator space.
9) The next evening, or the next, it's best on Day 3, I promise, reheat on the stovetop and serve with polenta and a persillade of chopped parsley, garlic, sea salt, pepper, lemon zest and lemon juice.
4 lbs. shoulder "clod", or shoulder roast
3 Tbs. olive oil
4 onions
2-3 carrots
2-3 parsnips
1 28 oz. can diced tomatoes
6 cloves of garlic
thyme, 2 bay leaves, chopped parsley (including some stem)
peel of one orange
freshly ground or crushed pepper
8 oz. red wine
handful of pitted olives (or not, but be sure to warn the guests!)
sea salt
1) Preheat the oven to 290F (140C).
2) Cut the meat into large chunks.
3) Peel the carrots and parsnips and cut into 1-2" chunks. Peel and slice the onions.
4) In the bottom of a the largest stew pot you have, add olive oil, about 3 Tbs. Cover with the vegetables. Arrange the meat on top. With the pan uncovered, start cooking over moderate heat on top of the stove.
5) Meanwhile, heat the wine in another saucepan. Bring it to a fast boil and let simmer for a minute. (Elizabeth David sets light to the wine and rotates the pan so the flames spread.)
6) Pour the simmering wine over the meat. Cover the pot with foil and then a well fitting lid. Transfer to the oven and leave for 2 1/2 hours.
7) Check the meat for doneness. This is the scary part. After two hours or so the meat will seem tough and you'll invariably think that you've overcooked it and your stew will be inedible. Continue cooking for another 30 minutes and check again. The stew is done when the meat starts to shred when you pull at it with a fork.
8) Cool the stew and refrigerate. This can be tricky because of refrigerator space.
9) The next evening, or the next, it's best on Day 3, I promise, reheat on the stovetop and serve with polenta and a persillade of chopped parsley, garlic, sea salt, pepper, lemon zest and lemon juice.
I can't remember where I found this polenta recipe, but it's ridiculously easy and requires no hands-on time since it's baked in the oven. One cup of cornmeal serves 3-4 people. The amount of liquid used varies according to the firmness desired. I replace one-third to one-half of the water with milk for a creamier texture. Polenta will set after cooling, and even 'soft' polenta can be passed under the broiler. For almost soupy polenta, use 1 measure of cornmeal to 6 measures of liquid. For soft polenta that holds its shape, use of 1:5 ratio, and for firm polenta sticks, use 1:3 or 1:4.
1 cup cornmeal or polenta (not instant or quick-cooking)
3-6 cups water (or a mixture of water and milk)
1 Tbs. butter or olive oil
1 tsp. sea salt
1) Preheat oven to 350F.
2) Mix cornmeal, liquid and salt in a bowl. Pour into a heat-proof skillet or pan.
3) Bake uncovered for 30-40 minutes. Stir. Adjust salt. Bake 10 minutes more.
4) Remove from oven. Let rest 5 minutes. Stir in butter and serve or cool and reheat under the broiler for a crisp crust.
Spicy Caramelized and Roasted Nuts
These all-purpose nuts are great to have on hand for nibbling, tossing in salads, or chopped as a garnish for the chocolate cake below.
1 egg white
4 cups unsalted mixed nuts (pecans, walnuts, almonds, etc.)
1/2 cup sugar
2 tsp. Mixed spices (I use cinnamon, freshly ground mixed pepper to start)
1 tsp. Sea salt
1) Preheat oven to 325F.
2) Whisk the egg white until foamy. Stir in sugar and spices and then add the nuts and mix together.
3) Spread nut mixture onto a nonstick baking sheet or a Silpat mat.
4) Roast for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring every five minutes, until browned. Watch the nuts and they will burn quickly.
5) Cool and serve as an aperitif, on salads, or chopped in the chocolate cake below.
4 cups unsalted mixed nuts (pecans, walnuts, almonds, etc.)
1/2 cup sugar
2 tsp. Mixed spices (I use cinnamon, freshly ground mixed pepper to start)
1 tsp. Sea salt
1) Preheat oven to 325F.
2) Whisk the egg white until foamy. Stir in sugar and spices and then add the nuts and mix together.
3) Spread nut mixture onto a nonstick baking sheet or a Silpat mat.
4) Roast for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring every five minutes, until browned. Watch the nuts and they will burn quickly.
5) Cool and serve as an aperitif, on salads, or chopped in the chocolate cake below.
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Sometimes the camera
comes late to the party!
© K-Rae Nelson
|
Gâteau
Reine de Saba à la framboise
The basis for this recipe is Nigela Lawson's Gateau Reine de Saba which originally appeared in The New York Times on February 2, 2005. I added the raspberry filling and the spiced and roasted nut topping. I use store-bought finely ground almond meal or grind blanched almonds myself. When I grind the almonds, they are coarser and give a pronounced nutty mouth feel to the cake.
Serves 10
The basis for this recipe is Nigela Lawson's Gateau Reine de Saba which originally appeared in The New York Times on February 2, 2005. I added the raspberry filling and the spiced and roasted nut topping. I use store-bought finely ground almond meal or grind blanched almonds myself. When I grind the almonds, they are coarser and give a pronounced nutty mouth feel to the cake.
Serves 10
Cake:
12 Tbs. (1 1/2 sticks) butter, more for pan
6 oz. dark chocolate, chopped
A few drops almond extract
2 Tbs. strong coffee (optional)
4 large eggs, separated
1/2 tsp. finely ground sea salt
1 cup sugar
1 3/4 cup finely ground almonds
Filling:
1/2 - 2/3 cup raspberry preserves
Glaze:
3 Tbs. sugar
1 1/2 Tbs. corn syrup
1/3 cup water
6 oz. dark chocolate, chopped
1 1/2 Tbs. unsalted butter
1 cup roasted and caramelized nuts, chopped
1) Prepare the cake. Heat oven to 325F. Butter bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan. Combine butter and chocolate in glass bowl. Microwave for 2 minutes on high (microwave times may vary). Remove from microwave and stir mixture until melted. Stir in coffee and almond extract. Allow to cool.
2) With an electric mixer, beat egg whites and salt until soft peaks form. Slowly add 1/2 cup sugar and continue beating until thick and glossy. Set aside.
3) In a separate bowl, beat egg yolks with remaining 1/2 cup sugar until thick. Fold in the melted chocolate mixture. Add ground almonds and mix well. Whisk in a healthy dollop of egg whites to lighten mixture, then gently fold in the rest of the egg whites, keeping the batter airy.
4) Scrape batter into pan and back until cake is dry on top and a bit moist in the center, 30-40 minutes depending on your oven. Check the center of the cake with a toothpick after 20 minutes and then again at 30 minutes. If the center seems very wet, continue baking.
5) Cool cake for 20 minutes, then remove the side ring.
6) Prepare the glaze. Place chocolate in glass bowl. In a small saucepan, combine the sugar and corn syrup and 1/3 cup water. Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Poor the liquid over the chopped chocolate and let stand a minute or so then stir to melt. If the chocolate is not melted, microwave the mixture for 30 seconds and stir again. Whisk the butter into the chocolate mixture.
7) Spread the preserves over the top of the cake. Then pour the chocolate glaze evenly over the cake and raspberry filling, using a spatula to even the glaze over the side of the cake.
8) Press nut mixture all around the side of the cake.
9) Let cool and set, preferably overnight.
12 Tbs. (1 1/2 sticks) butter, more for pan
6 oz. dark chocolate, chopped
A few drops almond extract
2 Tbs. strong coffee (optional)
4 large eggs, separated
1/2 tsp. finely ground sea salt
1 cup sugar
1 3/4 cup finely ground almonds
Filling:
1/2 - 2/3 cup raspberry preserves
Glaze:
3 Tbs. sugar
1 1/2 Tbs. corn syrup
1/3 cup water
6 oz. dark chocolate, chopped
1 1/2 Tbs. unsalted butter
1 cup roasted and caramelized nuts, chopped
1) Prepare the cake. Heat oven to 325F. Butter bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan. Combine butter and chocolate in glass bowl. Microwave for 2 minutes on high (microwave times may vary). Remove from microwave and stir mixture until melted. Stir in coffee and almond extract. Allow to cool.
2) With an electric mixer, beat egg whites and salt until soft peaks form. Slowly add 1/2 cup sugar and continue beating until thick and glossy. Set aside.
3) In a separate bowl, beat egg yolks with remaining 1/2 cup sugar until thick. Fold in the melted chocolate mixture. Add ground almonds and mix well. Whisk in a healthy dollop of egg whites to lighten mixture, then gently fold in the rest of the egg whites, keeping the batter airy.
4) Scrape batter into pan and back until cake is dry on top and a bit moist in the center, 30-40 minutes depending on your oven. Check the center of the cake with a toothpick after 20 minutes and then again at 30 minutes. If the center seems very wet, continue baking.
5) Cool cake for 20 minutes, then remove the side ring.
6) Prepare the glaze. Place chocolate in glass bowl. In a small saucepan, combine the sugar and corn syrup and 1/3 cup water. Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Poor the liquid over the chopped chocolate and let stand a minute or so then stir to melt. If the chocolate is not melted, microwave the mixture for 30 seconds and stir again. Whisk the butter into the chocolate mixture.
7) Spread the preserves over the top of the cake. Then pour the chocolate glaze evenly over the cake and raspberry filling, using a spatula to even the glaze over the side of the cake.
8) Press nut mixture all around the side of the cake.
9) Let cool and set, preferably overnight.
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