K-Rae Nelson's Toast2Taste: Vacation Rentals

Showing posts with label Vacation Rentals. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Living the Dream: Short-term furnished rentals in Paris for the 99%.

Finding an apartment to rent in Paris is not difficult, especially if you’re looking for a one or two-week vacation rental. Short-term rentals are often priced as an alternative to a hotel. For a couple or a family of four, paying $100-$200 (80€-155€) per night to have your own fully-equipped kitchen and living space is not even a luxury since you’ll save considerably on food expenses. However, most people (those without a housing stipend from their employer) seeking accommodations for a month or longer cannot afford to pay a monthly rent of $3000-$6000 (2340€ - 4650€) for a studio or one-bedroom. Unless you’re from Oslo or Tokyo, Paris is not going to feel affordable, but it is possible to find a wide range of housing options in Central Paris for $650-$1950 (500€-1500€) per month for a single person or couple.

For furnished short-term rentals of a month or more, have a look at Sabbatical Homes, PAP, a French owner-to-owner site, and FUSAC (‘housing offers Paris’ and ‘short-term rentals’). For example, a PAP search for studio and 1-bedroom apartments in the central arrondissements 1-6 and 11-13 yielded a selection of 142 apartments in the 500€-1500€ per month range. FUSAC’s offerings are fewer, but in the same price range, while Sabbatical Homes listings tend to be a bit pricier (beginning at 950€), but well-appointed and central. You’ll probably find it easier to communicate landlords on mostly English Sabbatical Homes and FUSAC sites. It is also possible to find good deals on Airbnb and Trip Advisor.

Most of these listings are offered by owner so you save on the agency fee, but a higher level of independence is required since there is generally no local manager to turn to for help if you run into problems. However, in my experience, many agencies act not as managers, but as go-betweens for private owners and may be of limited help if something in the apartment or building is not functioning.

If you want the convenience of having a local point person, Roxanne Ledru of Central Paris Rentals has a selection of very small, but centrally located studios and apartments.

Always establish contact with the landlord directly through email or phone with the owner to talk about the apartment or house, plans during the stay and the particulars of payment.

Rooftop Brunch

What to look for:

1) Location. Location. Location.

You may find an adorable house in a leafy suburb ‘only 10 minutes from the city center by train.’ Avoid. You’re in Paris. Most likely for a short time. Enjoy it. Walk. Savor. Do not spend it on the RER B which is usually slow, and late, and when it’s not, the workers are on strike. And it closes early.

Chose the most central location that your budget allows. There are many delightful, trendy neighborhoods in Paris, such as the western Righ Bank arrondissements, 10^th-12^th, 19^th-20^th. See my post on Paris Layout for a description of neighborhoods.

2) More location.

How close are you to work or school? Look at your metro and bus connections. Paris intra muros is pretty compact. Aim for a 20 minute commute by bus, metro or walking. Consult a map or ask about the nearest bus stops and metro stations.

Are there shops near the apartment? Find out the location of the nearest marché, rue commerçante, supermarché and boulangerie.

3) The building and apartment.


The Essentials in 4m2 © 1993 K-Rae Nelson

Most Paris buildings have a keypad entry on the street, called a digicode. These codes are often not activated during the day and are used in the evening and on weekends. Buildings often have interphones at the stairway entry so when you visit someone, you need to know the address, the digicode, the stairway (sometimes there are several), the name or number on the interphone, as well as the floor and the door (usually left or right). For example, an address might be:

51 rue Montorgueil, 2ème, Code: 5463, Escalier A, Interphone Dupont, 3ème étage gauche.

51 rue Montorgueil, 2nd arrondissement, Code : 5463, Stairway A, Interphone Dupont, 3rd floor (4th U.S.) left (as you come up the stairs or exit the elevator).

Sleeping arrangements may include beds, futons, or pull-out couches. Mattresses are sometimes on the floor (who wants to carry a frame up 4 flights?). Sheets, towels, and dishes are provided in almost all cases. Most rental units have washing machines, dishwashers, microwaves, DVD players, and Internet connections. Wireless connections are very common. A dryer may be listed in the amenities, but it is usually a combination washer/dryer and the dryer is more of a cooker.

Clarify. What are the expenses in addition to rent? Most short-term rentals include internet, cable TV and local telephone service (some providers include international phone as well!). Gas and electric are often not included. Gas and electric is billed separately on two-month schedules which can complicate the final check out. You might want to suggest taking a meter reading when you enter the apartment and pay by usage when you leave. You should not pay the charges, or home owner’s association fees. They should be wrapped into the rent. Les charges can also be used to mean just gaz et électricité. The caution is your security deposit. It is often one, or even two, month’s rent. Make sure to clarify what charges will be taken out of the security deposit and when and how it will be returned to you.

4) Reasonable Expectations

The owners will expect you to be reasonably quiet. This means keeping your voices down and closing the windows if you’re having a party and the volume escalates. They may not want the neighbors to know they are renting out their apartment. Respect their privacy by not giving out this information. You’re ‘friends of the family’ if anyone asks.

Chances are you’ll be living in an apartment that is one or more centuries old. Things break down (entry doors, elevators, appliances) and may take some time to repair. More time than you find unreasonable. If your landlord does not provide you with a list of contact names and numbers (a helpful neighbor, the home owner’s association (le syndic), handyman, etc.), you should ask. Before they go on vacation.

5) Things to Worry About

Make sure you have the landlord’s phone number and contact information as well as that of a local point person if the landlord will be unreachable (out of the country or some areas of Brittany).

Building and apartment keys in France are ridiculously expensive (a security scam no doubt perpetuated by the insurance companies and locksmiths). Ask the landlord if there is someone local with a spare key. If you leave the apartment without your keys, it will cost several hundred Euros to open the door. If you had the misfortune of leaving the keys in the lock and then closing the door (bad, bad idea), you’ll be replacing the whole lock (beginning at 1000€). Most keys cannot be duplicated without a code and if you lose a key you may be charged for re-keying, or replacement of the key (100€ would not be unusual).

Getting your security deposit back. Ideally, there will be someone to check you out when you leave, look over the apartment, read the gas and electric meters, call the phone company for charges, and then return the balance of your security deposit to you right then and there in cash. This is not always possible, so it’s best to discuss with the landlord or property manager beforehand how the security deposit will be returned and what exactly you will be charged for at the end of your stay.

Internet scams. I do not recommend Craigslist as a housing resource. If you have not rented before and are unfamiliar with the city, it may be difficult to recognize scammers.

Compare these two ads:

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Apartment A

This charming and delightful 120 square meters , 4 Bedroom, apartment is located on rue Gustave Dore in the 17th arrondissement, on the 3 rd French floor of a 19th century building and it sleeps 7 people. This apartment is equipped with : washer, dryer, dishwasher, cable, TV, unlimited high speed internet access with the wifi, DVD, stereo, decorative fireplace. Also provided : Bed linens, Blankets, Pillows, Towels and Kitchen utensils.

The 19th century building is equipped with : elevator, intercom, security code.

Apartment B

This charming and delightful 120 square meters , 3 Bedroom, apartment is located on rue Gustave Dore in the 17th arrondissement, on the 3 rd French floor of a 19th century building and it sleeps 7 people. This apartment is equipped with : washer, dryer, dishwasher, cable, TV, unlimited high speed internet access with the wifi, DVD, stereo, decorative fireplace. Also provided : Bed linens, Blankets, Pillows, Towels and Kitchen utensils
The 19th century building is equipped with : elevator, intercom, security code

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The first apartment is listed on Paris Attitude for 5000 € per month with a minimum one year contract (agency fees not included). The second apartment is listed on Craigslist with the title “Already Furnished Apt 500 EUR/ 2 bd.” If it looks too good to be true, it is.

Is this for real? The number one indicator of a scam is extremely low rent for a large, fully furnished apartment. Other things to look for are photos of apartments that seem too modern or out of place. If the interior looks like a model home in a Californian subdivision, it’s probably not Paris. Central air-conditioning is also exceedingly rare. “Easy access to motorways” is also not something that people seek in a Paris apartment. Words that you do want to see in a Paris apartment ad are “walking distance”, “proximity to bus, metro, shops”.

Rooftop Nap

A reassuring word. My family and I rented apartments in Paris for almost 15 years without incident before finding our apartment. As much as possible, we rented through word of mouth and friends of friends. Whenever possible we asked a local contact to look at the apartment before deciding on it. We continue to rent vacation homes all over Europe sight unseen.

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Vacation Rentals: Living the Dream in the French Countryside

It only took a couple of years into parenthood to realize that our pre-child vacationing strategy of two-week road trips centered around fine dining and a different charming hotel every day or two needed some serious tweaking. The moment of truth came when my husband and I were stuck in a small hotel room near Gordes with our toddler, fighting each other for the rights to the relative calm of the bathroom. I still remember the book I was reading in the bath, aptly titled, The Drowning Room!

Living out the ‘Life in Provence’ fantasy without sinking our life savings into repairs was very appealing. We would spend our days foraging for wild berries and herbs, relax around a fire pit in the evening with local wine, take day trips to monasteries, castles and farmer’s markets, ride bikes down country lanes, paddle down the Dordogne river and dip into chilly Corsican streams. With only minor disappointments, this is just what we’ve been doing for the past 15 years, renting houses, mostly in the French countryside, for summer vacations.

The internet was in its infancy when we started, but I found lovely houses through friends and in the seasonal rental section of FUSAC – France USA Contacts – the Parisian Anglophone classified paper. Later, I turned to vacation rental listings online. Some of my favorite sites are listed below.

Benefits to renting a house or apartment

1. Room to relax and opportunities to live like a local

Whether you’re traveling with children, friends, or multiple generations, it’s great to have your own space and some room to spread out. If your idea of a vacation is to sleep in, rest and read, perhaps go for a hike or some light exploring, a comfortable environment to hang out in, or to come home to, renting a vacation home is probably for you. If, however, vacation means room and concierge service and a prompt response in English when something goes wrong, you may not be ready for the vacation rental experience abroad.


Relaxing at Villa Trotta © Victor Vianu

Spending some time in one place provides the opportunity to explore your environs in more depth and to take you off the obvious tourist path, allowing perhaps for more exchange with the locals. You might find yourself at the municipal pool, having a pasta dinner at an Italian sagra, or local fair, taking part in the evening ritual of strolling through the village, playing boules, or spending the evening under a traveling circus tent. You may even encounter some similarly-minded visitors, like Amanda Smith whom we met in the south of France when she was researching her book on Paris markets that became Paris in a Basket.

2. Kitchen.

“I’m on vacation! I don’t want to cook.” I hear this from a lot of friends, but it’s very convenient to have the option of cooking a quick meal. I find it tiresome, not to mention expensive, to eat every meal out and enjoy shopping in local markets and tasting local delicacies like the small, sweet Mara des Bois strawberries, potato and foie gras tourte, and confit de canard in Dordogne. I also like to explore local supermarkets and even bring home some of my vacation treasures such as white truffle pasta sauce (Tuscany), canned beans with figatellu sausage (Corsica).

Waiting for Bananas Pompei

Vacation cooking is simple and often centers around outdoor grilling adventures - marinated and grilled tuna, mackerel and shrimp, roasted garlic, bananas “Pompei” - or local figs with honey and goat cheese, walnut tagliatelle (Provence), homemade plum crumbles, if you’re lucky enough to have an oven. Local apéritifs like Christian’s “Whiscass” (Whiskey and Crème de Cassis), wine and eaux de vie can be enjoyed without worrying about driving home.

You may find a local farm nearby that can supply you with fresh eggs, cheese, and even milk. Where bakeries are few and far between, bakery trucks make the rounds two or three times a week. Look for “Dépôt de Pain” signs at shops in small villages where you can pick up fresh bread daily.

Fresh Bread Here

3. Choosing a Rental and When to Go.

The best time to travel is off-season, especially if your destination of choice is the Côte d’Azur, or French Riviera. Not only are the rates significantly lower, often by 30-50%, but the crowds and traffic are only a fraction of what you’ll endure during high season. May and June, and September and early October are perfect for travel. If you are constrained by school vacation schedules, avoid the coasts and explore the countryside. Or, go to Corsica where you can enjoy the sea and the mountains in the same day and crowds are much more manageable, especially outside of the major tourist conglomerations.

4. Settling In and Country “Quiet”.

When you find a rental you like and have determined that the dates match, be sure to ask if linens are provided (some sites such as Gîtes de France charge extra for sheets and towels), if the house or

Maison Camille

apartment will be clean upon your arrival and if you are expected to clean before leaving, if internet and phone access are available, and if there are any other charges associated with the rental. Make sure you get clear arrival or driving instructions and get a local contact number and find out if you have a common language with the local contact. Read the online references for the rental or ask for references if not are supplied. Find out well before you arrival how payment should be handled and if there is a security deposit.

If you’re going to be spending time in the countryside, you’ll most likely be renting a car. It is much more economical to rent a standard, rather than automatic, car. Be sure to pick up a detailed map of the region which you’ll need for navigating country roads. A GPS can be useful, but I wouldn’t rely on it solely. I usually find that reserving a car in the US is cheaper than reserving in France. Even when I’m planning my trip in France, I often call the US number to make the reservation. Make sure you have a local number to call in the event of car trouble (like a broken axel on the Amalfi coast), and it’s a good idea to keep the gas tank filled (in the event of an oil refinery blockade).

There is occasionally a disconnect between the city dweller’s idealized view of peaceful country life and the actual experience. You may be jolted out of your country reverie at an early hour by clanking, whirring, bell jangling and the like, the seemingly abandoned church right next to the property may have a bell programmed to chime loudly every hour, or the rushing river that runs under the old mill house may keep you awake.

Before finalizing your vacation rental, locate the property on a map (use google) to determine if there are any major roads or other possible noise sources (restaurant, bar) near the property, and to figure out how far the property is from sights that you will want to visit. Country houses are often rather remote. You should have a good idea of how far from the nearest village, supermarket or tourist spots you want to be, and how much you are willing to drive every day.

You should also ask your host where the nearest supermarket is and if it will be open when you arrive. Whenever possible, I try to stop at the supermarket on the way to stock up on the first necessities (including toilet paper) and some simple ingredients for the first night’s dinner and next morning’s breakfast.