I Love Paris in the Summer: Music and Dance

Dancing on the Seine View on Notre Dame

Dancing on the Seine, Paris 1950

Source: transparentvignettes.tumblr.com

The most romantic spot to dance outdoors in Paris has to be in the Left Bank’s Jardin Tino Rossi right on the quai with a view on Notre Dame. In several small arenas, you can join in the dancing, Tango, Rock-n-Roll or Salsa, depending on the evening, beginning around 7pm with lessons for beginners and continuing until around midnight. The Port Saint Bernard embankment is between the Pont de Sully (Sully Bridge) and the Pont d’Austerlitz across from the Institut du Monde Arabe. The closest metro is Jussieu, although it is a nice walk from Notre Dame and the Ile Saint Louis. If you’re too shy to dance, it’s still a fabulous ambiance, strolling along the river on a summer’s eve listening to music and admiring the dancers.

Exhibit: Paris en Chansons/Paris in Song

The Galerie de la Bibliothèque Historique is a fairly small space next door to the Paris City History Library, itself housed in a 17^th century hôtel particulier, or private mansion. Past exhibits have included one on Paris maps and another on bicycles in Paris. The current exhibit, Paris en Chansons, or Paris in Song, runs until July 29^th. George Gershwin is purported to have said, « Il n’y a que deux sujets de chansons possibles: Paris et l’amour » (There are but two possible song themes: Paris and love.). This exhibit presents Paris through song from the last two centuries. The visitor can listen to songs by theme, by arrondissement, by artist and composer. Bob Hughes gives a thorough review of the exhibit here. 

Galerie des Bibliothèques de la Ville de Paris, 22 rue Malher/Pavée, 4^th, M: Saint Paul.

Note : the rue Malher turns joins with the rue Pavée at #22 so the address can be found with both names.

Opening Times : Tuesday – Sunday, 1pm-7pm; Open Thursdays until 9pm; 

Closed Mondays.

Entrée/Entry 6€ ; Tarif réduit/Reduced Rate 4€ ; Demi-tarif/Half price 3€
Gratuit pour les jeunes de moins de 14 ans/Free for youths under 14.

Paris en Chansons

As long as you’re in the neighborhood, spend some time wandering the streets. This is the heart of the pre-WWII Jewish ‘pletzl’ and there are still many Jewish restaurants serving Israeli-inspired falafel such as L’As du Falafel, (34 rue des Rosiers) or Eastern European chopped liver at Sacha Finkelsztajn’s Boutique Jaune, 27 rue des Rosiers. The synagogue at 10 rue Pavée was designed by Hector Guimard, the architect of the classic metro entrance.

The Musée Carnavalet, the Museum of the History of Paris, at the corner of rue des Francs-Bourgeois and rue de Sévigné, like all of the museums of the city of Paris, offers free entry and is worth a visit for an overview of the history of Paris as well as a visit of the interior of a grand 17^th century Parisian hôtel particulier. The Eugene Atget photography show continues until July 29^th.

Continue east on the rue des Francs-Bourgeois and you’ll end up at one of the prettiest squares in Paris, the Place des Vosges, with its stone and brickwork houses, arcades and grassy square. On Sundays and throughout the summer, you’ll hear musicians taking advantage of the arcade acoustics to sing opera areas or well-known classical numbers. The square is a popular spot for picnics among the fountains and there is a children’s playground in the corner near the Maison Victor Hugo (also free admission).

Fête de la Musique, June 21^st

The Fête de la Musique began in Paris 30 years ago and has evolved into a world music festival marking the summer solstice. Although there are many professional concerts to be found, the original idea behind the festival was to provide a forum for amateur musicians. Beginning in the afternoon, you’ll begin to hear music in the streets as musicians fill cafés and corners for the evening. 

My favorite venues for music are the Place Furstenberg in the 6^th (M: Saint-Germain-des-Prés), a small square (or circle) which provides the perfect stage for musicians, and the rue de Seine, near the tiny Square Gabriel Pierné at the intersection of 12 rue de Seine and rue Mazarine where every year a public sing-along is held with Joël Dalle from 8pm -12:30am. The crowds share the song sheets that are passed around and sing together the most beloved of French chansons, including those of Edith Piaf, Georges Brassens, Jacques Brel, and Renaud. Cross the Pont des Arts, the wooden pedestrian bridge that connects the Louvre and the Academie de France, where you may encounter the boisterous fanfare of the Beaux-Arts, a sort of marching band of architecture students.

On the Right Bank, there will be music in the Cour Carré of the Louvre, across the street in the gardens of the Palais Royal and in the covered passages of the Galerie Vivienne just to the north, as well as jazz in cafés around the rue Saint Honoré.

In the Marais, and in conjunction with the Paris en Chansons exhibit, Paris Combo will give a concert at 6:30pm in the beautiful courtyard of the Bibliothèque Historique de la Ville de Paris, 24 rue Pavée, 4^th , M: Saint Paul. (On the Left Bank, another Paris en Chansons event is a concert by Noir de Seine at Bilipo, 48/50 rue du Cardinal Lemoine, 5^th M : Cardinal Lemoine).

The morning of June 21^st, pick up a copy of the French newspaper Libération for a detailed program of the day’s concerts, see highlights in one of the free newspapers, such as 20 Minutes, or Métro, or purchase a Pariscope for 40 centimes, published every Wednesday, which will also provide listings.

Paris Jazz Festival Parc Floral – July 9-29, 2012

Nidal Joseph & No Water Please

The Parc Floral is located within the enormous Parc de Vincennes, the eastern ‘lung’ of Paris (the Bois de Boulogne being the western ‘lung’, the two large parks making of the oxygenating poumons de Paris). A list of concerts held at the outdoor stages can be found HERE.

Entrance to the park is at the Esplanade Saint Louis in front of the Château de Vincennes – Bois de Vincennes or at the Avenue de la Pyramide - RER A Vincennes / Métro Château de Vincennes (Line 1) or Bus N°112. The park is open from 9:30am to 8pm. Entry is 5 € ; Reduced rate for 7-25 years: 2,75 €; Free for under 7. A Festival pass is 20 €/ 10 € for under 25.

There are free events and concerts every Saturday and Sunday from June 9 to July 29.

Le Quatorze Juillet – Bastille Day Balls, Picnic and Parade – July 13-14

The annual Bals des Pompiers, public balls hosted by Paris Fire Brigades, are held on the evenings of July 13^th and 14^th. They get going around 10pm and last into the wee hours. There are long lines at the more popular venues and often a donation is requested. Usually there is a big public ball at the Place de la Bastille as well on the 13^th.

The Military Parade will begin at 9am on the 14^th at the Arc de Triomphe at the  Place de l’Etoile and the troops march down the Champs-Elysées to the Place de la Concorde where they will be greeted by President François Hollande in his first Bastille Day appearance.

The Picnic de la Republique is held in the Versailles gardens along the canal. The tradition is to dress in white, the color of the monarchy (blue and red are the traditional colors of Paris).

Fireworks begin at 10pm at the Eiffel Tower with viewing on the Champs de Mars.

Check back at the beginning of July for addresses and times for all of the festivities.

Paris Pratique I: Getting around and les transports en commun

[updated July 3, 2012]

The Paris public transportation system is efficient and easy to navigate. Tickets and passes are valid for travel on the métro, bus, tram and RER. If you are staying in Paris for a week or longer, the easiest way to get around is to purchase an unlimited pass, called the Passe Navigo Découverte. The weekly passes are valid Monday to Sunday. To avoid lines, you can purchase or recharge your pass the Friday before. Monthly passes are valid for the calendar month and can be purchased beginning the 20^th of the month before.

Paris Visite offers several tourist options which include unlimited travel for 1, 2, 3, or 5 days, within the selected zones as well as line-jumping privileges at many Paris museums and attractions. Unless you are planning on visiting two or more major museums per day, it’s usually not worth the extra expense. The city center is small enough that if you purchase a book of ten tickets, called a carnet, you’ll be fine for very short stays.

 

Acquiring, charging and using your Pass Navigo Découverte

You’ll need a small photo of yourself for the pass. You can take a photo in a photomaton, photo booth, (choose 'miniphoto' if you have a choice, otherwise the 4 photo option) located in some stations. The cost is 5€, payable with a bill or coins. You can also
cut a small headshot of yourself out of a larger photo. The headshot should measure approximately 1½” high and 1” wide (you can trim to fit). In a pinch, a photocopy of your passport photo will do.  

If you have a credit card, you can purchase both the Pass Navigo Découverte for 5€ and charge it for one week or a month at one of the information booths inside major métro stations. 

If you only have cash, you must first purchase your Pass Navigo Découverte at the automated kiosk, pick up a coupon and then retrieve it back at the information booth. After you get the plastic card, then you have to take it back to the machine to charge it.

To begin at a kiosk, touch the screen for English, then select Touch to buy tickets here, followed by Coupon Pass Navigo Découvertea This will give you a coupon which you then take to the Information window. 

At this point you will probably be weary of the entire process, but please remember to greet the agents at the window and ask politely for their help.

Pronunciation note: the soft ‘j’ or ‘g’ in French is pronounced ‘zhe’ like the ‘s’ sound in ‘pleasure’. It is the voiced counterpart to the ‘t’ sound in ‘nation’ or the French word for chair, ‘chaise’.

Bonjour, Madame (Monsieur). Pourriez-vous m’aider à acheter un Pass Navigo Découverte et me montrer comment le recharger ?

[pronounced : Poureeay-voo mehday ah ashtay un Pass Navigo Daycuverte  ay muh   montray komo luh resharzhay?

If the agent realizes you are a tourist, he or she may try to upsell you to a Paris Visite tourist pass and may even tell you that you’re not eligible for one. Just smile and say you’re not a tourist. You live in Paris now.

Je ne suis pas touriste. J’habite Paris maintenant.

            [pronounced: Zhe nuh swi pah touriste. Zhahbeet Pariy mentenan.]

The actual pass includes a smart card to which you affix a small photo of yourself and fill in your NOM (last, or family, name) and your PRENOM (first name). Then you plastifier the card by folding the sticky plastic over your photo and name and slipping the card into the hard plastic case. This is your Pass Navigo Découverte, but it is not valid until you charge it.

If you have just arrived in Paris or are in France for a short stay you probably do not have a smart credit card that can be used in the violet colored kiosks. You’ll want to look for a kiosk with the roll bar or touch screen and the orange band with the pictogram showing bank bills and coins. Apparently the kiosks are now set up to accept foreign credit and debit cards. You’ll choose Rechargement Pass Navigo, Zones 1-2, Hebdomadaire (Weekly) or Mensuel (Monthly). Place your card on the machine when requested and wait for it to be charged. 

Zones and Fares

The center of Paris is considered Zones 1-2. All métro stations and Paris buses are in Zones 1-2 (NB: Buses that go to the suburbs will enter Zone 3 and require additional fare). The RER system (Regional Express trains) serves the Parisian suburbs and crisscrosses Paris. If you take the RER within Paris, your Zones 1-2 ticket or pass is valid. If you leave central Paris, make sure you have the appropriate ticket, or you can be fined on the spot. Popular destinations outside Paris include Orly Airport (Zone 3) Versailles (Zone 4), Eurodisney or Charles-de-Gaulle Airport (both Zone 5).

RER A Paris Stops : Charles-de-Gaulle Etoile (Champs-Elysées) – Auber (Opéra and Grand Magasins) – Châtelet-Les Halles – Gare de Lyon – Nation.

RER B Paris Stops : Gare du Nord - Châtelet-Les Halles – St. Michel Notre Dame – Luxembourg – Port Royal – Denfert-Rochereau – Cité Universitaire.

Fare Information

Paris Passe Navigo     19.15€ (weekly); 62.90€ (monthly) for Zones 1-2.

Tickets                          1.70€ (single); 12.70€ (carnet of 10) for Zones 1-2

Paris Visite                   9.75€ (1 day); 15.85€ (2 days); 21.60€ (3); 31.15€ (5) 

Prices usually change on July 1^st each year. These prices are valid as of May 2012.

Hours of Operation – Heures d’Ouverture

The metro runs from around 5:30am – 1am Sunday through Thursday, and until 2am on Friday and Saturday. You can check online at www.ratp.fr for first and last trains at your station. Buses start about an hour later and finish an hour earlier. The night buses, or Noctiliens, begin around midnight and continue until the metro opens, around 5:30am. The night buses start from the center of Paris and go to the suburbs. Night bus numbers are preceded by “N”. If the driver is signaling that you should not get on the bus, he’s probably telling you that it’s not the right bus for you. To avoid being stranded in a distant suburb, politely tell the driver where you want to go before getting on the bus.  

 Je voudrais aller à ____.

[pronunciation: Zhe voodray allay ah ____. I would like to go to ____.]

Traffic, Routes and Timetables

You can calculate your bus or train itinerary online at www.ratp.fr or with the iPhone/Pad RATP app. On the screen you’ll see something like this:

Rechercher un itinéraire ou un plan de quartier.

Top of Form

Départ / Plan de quartier *    

Arrivée

* Remplir un champ pour un plan de quartier et deux champs pour une recherche d’itinéraire. Fill in one box for a neighborhood map (Plan de quartier) and both boxes, departure and arrival, for an itinerary.

Select the green Rechercher box for search and Recherche avancée for an advanced search.

Advanced search options include Heure, hour of departure or arrival and Date. You can also select for the Mode of transportation – Tous (all), Ferré (Métro, RER, SNCF, Tramway), or Bus, Tramway; and from among several Critères – Le plus rapide (fastest), Le moins de correspondance (the fewest transfers) and Le moins de marche à pied (the least walking). 

You can compare various options and will be given information on traffic delays, if applicable as well as and a map. You can also select to show detailed instructions (Afficher le détail de la feuille de route).

 

Metro and Bus Etiquette

If you’ve read my entry on bus attitude, you’ll know that the first thing you do when you enter the bus is greet the driver with a Bonjour, Madame. Bonjour, Monsieur. Always enter the bus at the front and validate your titre de transport, your ticket or pass. Exit through the rear doors. Route maps are usually posted in the bus and some buses have monitors that announce the next stop. To request a stop, press one of the buttons placed throughout the bus prior to arrival. The sign in the front of the bus will light with Arrêt demandé , stop requested.

The “métro attitude” is more impersonal which can be less intimidating for tourists. Greeting or speaking to fellow passengers on the métro is neither required nor encouraged. Since everyone enters and exits through the same doors, let the passengers exit first and then step into the car. Do not attempt to board once the doors have started to close and never attempt to force the doors open. You only need to see someone caught in the doors once to learn that lesson. Not to mention that you don’t want to be the person who shuts down the entire line and then cannot retreat when irate passengers start yelling. Line 1 is now fully automated and work is being done on other lines as well which is meant to improve traffic flow and to prevent situations like the one above.

If you’re traveling alone at night, avoid entering cars where there is no one or people you’d rather avoid. If the behavior of another passenger makes you uncomfortable, get off at the next stop and enter a car closer to the driver, if there is one. Do not engage in eye contact or discussion with anyone you do not want to talk to. Any engagement will most likely be taken as an invitation. 

 

For an entertaining take on the perils of eye contact, see Steve Buscemi below in the Tuileries segment of the film Paris, Je T’Aime.

Culture Métro

The RATP strives to make your travel as enjoyable as possible, offering reading material, musical interludes and visit suggestions. For the last fifteen years, the RATP has held annual auditions for musicians who are authorized to perform in the hallways and on the trains. Each July, the winning entries from the annual Concours Poésie RATP are posted in métro cars and buses.

 

One of my favorite historical guides to Paris is the illustrated version of Lorànt Deutsch’s book Métronome, which offers up anecdotes of 2000 years of battles, basilicas and interested events associated with today’s métro lines. His videos are on the RATP site here. Click on the X to show the Paris map with a full list of historical sites and explanations here.

Saint-Germain-des-Prés Jazz Festival : May 20 – June 3, 2012

The 12^th Annual Jazz Festival Saint Germain-des-Prés Paris begins its two-week run this Sunday with a free concert on the plaza in front of the Saint-Germain-des-Pres church. If, as scheduled, it’s raining, duck into Café Les Deux Magots for a chocolat chaud and enjoy the music. A full listing of festival events can be found here. There are several free events in the neighborhood, a selection of which you find below, along with a few of the more ludique, or playful, offerings.

Sunday, May 20^th – « Jazz au féminin » FREE CONCERT!

Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés, 6th, M: Saint-Germain-des-Prés ; 2-7 pm

The first day of the festival is dedicated to female vocalists, composers and musicians. Kicca & Intrigo, Ndidi O Quartet, and Ilene Barnes open the festival with free concerts in the square in from the Saint-Germain-des-Prés church. (NB: You can listen to music clips on all of these links.)

Sunday, May 20^th – Degustation Jazz & Chocolats - 10€

            Boutique Richart, 27 rue Bonaparte, 6^th, M: Saint-Germain-des-Prés ; Hourly 2-6pm.

Just up the street from the Eglise Saint-Germain-des-Prés is the chocolate shop Richart, known for its tiny geometrically patterned chocolates.  A master chocolatier and the flutiste Jean-Pierre Solvès will play a jazz duo while you enjoy the sublime marriage of aromatic chocolate notes and musical imagination. To reserve, call 01 56 24 35 50, or email reservation@espritjazz.com. Tickets also available online at Billetterie Fnac.

Richart's Jazzy Chocolates

Monday, May 21^st – Amateur Jazz Vocal Groups – FREE CONCERT!

            Mairie du 6^ème, Salle des fêtes, 78 rue Bonaparte, 6^th, M: Saint Sulpice. 7:30-9pm.

Two groups will play at the City Hall of the 6th arrondissement. The Latino Jazz singers, Mer Belle À Très Agitée, and Amalgam, an a capella jazz choir will perform.

Tuesday, May 22^nd – Jazz et Bavardages “Legendary Jazz Portraits” FREE!

            Café des Editeurs, 4 carrefour de l’Odéon, 6^th, M: Odéon. 5:30pm

Journalist Pascal Anquetil will talk about great jazz musicians of the 20th century and promote his book Portraits légendaires du jazz.

Friday, May 25^th – Raphaële Atlan Trio – FREE CONCERT!

            Bibliothèque André Malraux, 78 bd Raspail, 6^th, M: Rennes. 6-7:30pm

Friday, May 25^th – Starbucks Cafés – FREE CONCERTS! – 6:30-8:30pm

            Salon Saint-Michel Seine, 13 bd Saint-Michel, 5^th ; M: St. Michel.

American Jazz Standards

            Salon Saint-Michel Cluny, 24 bd Saint-Michel, 6^th ; M: Cluny-La Sorbonne.

Piano and gypsy guitar 

Saturday, May 26 ^th – Swing Ball with L’Esprit Jazz Big Band

            Irish Cultural Center, 5 rue des Irlandais, 5^th; M:

            12€ pre-purchase ; 15€ at the door, 9€ 50s dress/hairstyle

A full jazz band will take you back to the post-war Swing Years and the famous orchestras of Count Basie, Duke Ellington and Glenn Miller. 

L'Esprit Jazz Big Band

Sunday, May 27^th – Jazz in the Luxembourg Gardens – FREE CONCERT! – 2-5pm.

            Luxembourg Gardens Kiosque, rue de Médicis entrance, 6^th, M: Luxembourg.

Sunday, May 27^th – Young Talent Jazz Competition – FREE CONCERT! – 4-7pm.

            Sunset and Sunside Jazz Club, 60 rue des Lombards, 1^st, M: Châtelet-Les Halles

Enjoy this young talent jazz competition in the famous Sunset Jazz Club. Concert free with the purchase of a beverage (from 5€). The Sunset/Sunside also has free jam sessions throughout the year, beginning around 11:30pm at night. 

Serge Gainsbourg (danielcosta.ca)

Tuesday, May 29^th –Jazz et Bavardages: Serge Gainsbourg – FREE! – 5:30pm.

                        

 Café des Editeurs, 4 carrefour de l’Odéon, 6^th, M: Odéon. 5:30pm 

Journalist Gilles Verlant, a rock historian on the radio station France Bleu and biographer of the French musical legend Serge Gainsbourg will talk about the jazz beginnings of the artist.

Friday, June 1^st– Starbucks Cafés – FREE CONCERTS! – 6:30-8:30pm

            Salon Odéon, 91 bd Saint-Germain, 6^th ; M: Odéon.

                        Soul, jazz, funk

            Salon Saint-André-des-Art, 62 rue Saint-André-des-Arts, 6^th ; M:Odéon.

New generation jazz manouche (gypsy jazz)

Vacation Rentals: Living the Dream in the French Countryside

It only took a couple of years into parenthood to realize that our pre-child vacationing strategy of two-week road trips centered around fine dining and a different charming hotel every day or two needed some serious tweaking. The moment of truth came when my husband and I were stuck in a small hotel room near Gordes with our toddler, fighting each other for the rights to the relative calm of the bathroom. I still remember the book I was reading in the bath, aptly titled, The Drowning Room!

Living out the ‘Life in Provence’ fantasy without sinking our life savings into repairs was very appealing. We would spend our days foraging for wild berries and herbs, relax around a fire pit in the evening with local wine, take day trips to monasteries, castles and farmer’s markets, ride bikes down country lanes, paddle down the Dordogne river and dip into chilly Corsican streams. With only minor disappointments, this is just what we’ve been doing for the past 15 years, renting houses, mostly in the French countryside, for summer vacations.

The internet was in its infancy when we started, but I found lovely houses through friends and in the seasonal rental section of FUSAC – France USA Contacts – the Parisian Anglophone classified paper. Later, I turned to vacation rental listings online. Some of my favorite sites are listed below. 

Benefits to renting a house or apartment

1. Room to relax and opportunities to live like a local

Whether you’re traveling with children, friends, or multiple generations, it’s great to have your own space and some room to spread out. If your idea of a vacation is to sleep in, rest and read, perhaps go for a hike or some light exploring, a comfortable environment to hang out in, or to come home to, renting a vacation home is probably for you. If, however, vacation means room and concierge service and a prompt response in English when something goes wrong, you may not be ready for the vacation rental experience abroad.

Relaxing at Villa Trotta

© Victor Vianu

Spending some time in one place provides the opportunity to explore your environs in more depth and to take you off the obvious tourist path, allowing perhaps for more exchange with the locals. You might find yourself at the municipal pool, having a pasta dinner at an Italian sagra, or local fair, taking part in the evening ritual of strolling through the village, playing boules, or spending the evening under a traveling circus tent. You may even encounter some similarly-minded visitors, like Amanda Smith whom we met in the south of France when she was researching her book on Paris markets that became Paris in a Basket.

2. Kitchen.

“I’m on vacation! I don’t want to cook.” I hear this from a lot of friends, but it’s very convenient to have the option of cooking a quick meal. I find it tiresome, not to mention expensive, to eat every meal out and enjoy shopping in local markets and tasting local delicacies like the small, sweet Mara des Bois strawberries, potato and foie gras tourte, and confit de canard in Dordogne. I also like to explore local supermarkets and even bring home some of my vacation treasures such as white truffle pasta sauce (Tuscany), canned beans with figatellu sausage (Corsica).

Waiting for Bananas Pompei

© Victor Vianu

Vacation cooking is simple and often centers around outdoor grilling adventures - marinated and grilled tuna, mackerel and shrimp, roasted garlic, bananas “Pompei” - or local figs with honey and goat cheese, walnut tagliatelle (Provence), homemade plum crumbles, if you’re lucky enough to have an oven. Local apéritifs like Christian’s “Whiscass” (Whiskey and Crème de Cassis), wine and eaux de vie can be enjoyed without worrying about driving home.

You may find a local farm nearby that can supply you with fresh eggs, cheese, and even milk. Where bakeries are few and far between, bakery trucks make the rounds two or three times a week. Look for “Dépôt de Pain” signs at shops in small villages where you can pick up fresh bread daily.

Fresh Bread Here

© www.meilleurduchef.com

3. Choosing a Rental and When to Go.

The best time to travel is off-season, especially if your destination of choice is the Côte d’Azur, or French Riviera. Not only are the rates significantly lower, often by 30-50%, but the crowds and traffic are only a fraction of what you’ll endure during high season. May and June, and September and early October are perfect for travel. If you are constrained by school vacation schedules, avoid the coasts and explore the countryside. Or, go to Corsica where you can enjoy the sea and the mountains in the same day and crowds are much more manageable, especially outside of the major tourist conglomerations. 

4. Settling In and Country “Quiet”.

When you find a rental you like and have determined that the dates match, be sure to ask if linens are provided (some sites such as Gîtes de France charge extra for sheets and towels), if the house or

Maison Camille

© Victor Vianu

apartment will be clean upon your arrival and if you are expected to clean before leaving, if internet and phone access are available, and if there are any other charges associated with the rental. Make sure you get clear arrival or driving instructions and get a local contact number and find out if you have a common language with the local contact. Read the online references for the rental or ask for references if not are supplied. Find out well before you arrival how payment should be handled and if there is a security deposit.

 If you’re going to be spending time in the countryside, you’ll most likely be renting a car. It is much more economical to rent a standard, rather than automatic, car. Be sure to pick up a detailed map of the region which you’ll need for navigating country roads. A GPS can be useful, but I wouldn’t rely on it solely. I usually find that reserving a car in the US is cheaper than reserving in France. Even when I’m planning my trip in France, I often call the US number to make the reservation. Make sure you have a local number to call in the event of car trouble (like a broken axel on the Amalfi coast), and it’s a good idea to keep the gas tank filled (in the event of an oil refinery blockade).

There is occasionally a disconnect between the city dweller’s idealized view of peaceful country life and the actual experience. You may be jolted out of your country reverie at an early hour by clanking, whirring, bell jangling and the like, the seemingly abandoned church right next to the property may have a bell programmed to chime loudly every hour, or the rushing river that runs under the old mill house may keep you awake.

Before finalizing your vacation rental, locate the property on a map (use google) to determine if there are any major roads or other possible noise sources (restaurant, bar) near the property, and to figure out how far the property is from sights that you will want to visit. Country houses are often rather remote. You should have a good idea of how far from the nearest village, supermarket or tourist spots you want to be, and how much you are willing to drive every day.

You should also ask your host where the nearest supermarket is and if it will be open when you arrive. Whenever possible, I try to stop at the supermarket on the way to stock up on the first necessities (including toilet paper) and some simple ingredients for the first night’s dinner and next morning’s breakfast.

Dordogne Rooftops

© Victor Vianu

Bonnes Vacances!

Vacation Rental sites

www.sabbaticalhomes.com (Paris)

www.vrbo.com (Antibes, Biot, St. Petersburg)

www.summerinitaly.com (My review of Villa Trotta in the Cilento)

www.gites-de-france.com (French); en.gites-de-france.com (English)

www.corse-locations-marina.com (Corsica)

www.holiday-rentals.co.uk (Sardinia)

http://www.veniceapartments.org (Venice)

www.lapetitegardette.com (Manosque)

http://www.franceprovenceholidays.com, La Tourmaline, near Uzès

www.losinj.com (Croatia)

http://www.slovenia.info/ (Slovenia)